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Darling Gardens'

Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

Remember, every property is as unique as you are.  Every property's plant-life needs are as unique as you are.

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While these guidelines are meant to provide knowledge, we are here to help you with your specific needs.

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 A number of things all need to work in conjunction to result in the best lawn possible. 

 

Each care-taking item listed is more or less as important as the next.

 

There is a science to it, however the variables involved require a judgement call from time to time and we can help as questions arise.  You are your lawn's closest observer and we are here to expertly guide the way.

Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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MOW

Mow at appropriate heights at appropriate intervals. 

Rule of thumb: only remove 1/3 of the leaf, ie. mow 6" high grass down to 4". 

During the spring and fall, mow not less than weekly, summer months during slow growth can be as much as 14 day intervals. 

Avoid mowing during extreme heat and drought conditions!

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Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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water

Water when it needs watering.  Some properties are more challenging to irrigate whether it is the soil make-up, the size of property or well water restrictions, etc.

Some grass species are more drought tolerant than others and that is how we select the species to plant at your property. 

When grass roots die back during the stressful summer, they do not grow back until the fall. 

Some solutions to browning grass could be 1) to decide to only water the the front yard , 2) apply a "wetting agent" product that can be costly but has been shown to make a difference but is not guaranteed to work, or, 3) pray for rain and accept the outcome. 

 

Water and water challenges are topics we are happy to discuss during our first meeting and for the length of our relationship.

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Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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fertilize

Fertilize to ensure the grass receives the appropriate average annual requirement. The recommendation is 4 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year. 

We divide fertilizations to four applications of 1 lb of Nitrogen per 1000 square feet, each.  Applications are made in April, May, June/July, and in October.  Dividing the applications helps even out the extreme "flushes" of growth you would experience if applied in 2 lb applications.

These fertilizers are used simultaneously with pest control products that need to be applied at the same intervals throughout the season.

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Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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weed control

Weed control is a big part of the beauty of your lawn.

WHEN: We start in April with the first application of crabgrass prevention herbicide and then it is repeated in May.  The products last 3 to 4 months. This is why we make two low rate applications.  The first is effective from April to July, the second from May to August. 

HOW:  These PBI/Gordon products (found here and here) are applied along with the fertilizer applications. 

WHY: After August, crabgrass germination is a non-issue.  If the same products were applied at higher rates or later in the season, they would last into September and prevent the desirable grass seed from germinating, if we were to seed in the fall.  These products work very well at preventing most crabgrass. 

NOTE:  Areas that get weed whacked too short or that heat up on asphalt curbing can have crabgrass breakthroughs due to the product deteriorating faster in the heat or direct sunlight from reduced shade from "scalped" grass. 

AND:  Broadleaf weeds are controlled after they emerge because we can't kill a weed before we can find it.  We do this twice a year.  The first time in May, after the spring weeds like clover and dandelions emerge.  The second in July or August after the summer weeds like nutsedge and spurge grow.  Often we will make another touch-up treatment for anything that didn't die the first time.   

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Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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insect control

Insect control is applied in conjunction with the third fertilizer application in June - July.  The product we use treats for two target insects.  The first is white grubs.  The product is applied and after it rains, it is taken into the grass roots where it stays.  When the grubs hatch from their eggs in July/August, they take the first bite of treated grass roots and easily die.  This is the preferred method because they are far easier to kill when they are small.  Larger and more mature grubs require a large dose of a much harsher product in order to kill them.  Also, to get that big, they have to eat a lot of grass roots which is obviously not good for the grass.  In addition, skunks often till up large areas of grass in the fall to eat these grubs, making a huge mess of the lawn. 

The second target to treat is rice -sized chinch bugs.  They prefer non-irrigated lawns and the damage from their feeding appears as extreme drought in irregular patches.  They feed on the base of grass plants.  Once the damage is noticed, it is usually too late.  The product does a good job to reduce the population enough to limit the damage. .  Chinch bugs are very difficult pests to control and we cannot guarantee zero damage.  Chinch bug damage often results in seeding projects in the fall when they naturally diminish in population and damage potential.

Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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lime

Lime is applied with the fall fertilizer to give the product a chance to become functional through the winter. Its function is to help adjust and maintain appropriate pH levels of the soil.  Lime is a form of Calcium that can help neutralize CT's naturally acidic soil.  Plants can have difficulty absorbing nutrients effectively in soils either too acidic or too basic.  Lime is our standard treatment for the challenge of acidic soils in our area.  Fertilizers and rain are the two big reasons for acidity in our soils which makes lime a necessary part of a healthy lawn program.  Additional lime may be called for if a lawn is not performing as we would expect.  At that point a soil test could show need for additional lime.

Best Management Practices for Lawn Care

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aeration + seeding

AERATION and SEEDING is always recommended but not always necessary.  Aeration helps relieve compaction from mowers and foot traffic as well as aids in delivering oxygen to the soil.  It also makes a great opportunity to add seed to thin areas of a lawn.  It can be done to an extreme as a means to renovate and add lots of seed.  If a lawn looks great all year, skipping an aeration to save money is reasonable but for best results, aerate every fall.  This is not included in most programs because the degree of aeration we can choose to perform may vary based on the condition of the lawn during the summer.  SLICE seeding is a more effective yet more costly method of injecting seed into lawns.  This is only recommended in extreme circumstances but is a useful tool to use when all else has failed.  Seed germinates in as few as 7 days but as many as 21 or more days.  It requires constant moisture whether from irrigation or rainfall.  Inconsistent moisture will lead to inconsistent results.   We're here to help you make the best choice for your unique lawn.

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please remember...

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The above best care practices outline basic principles and aim to educate our customers on our process and knowledge.  Since every lawn is unique, these are meant to be guidelines.  Weather, droughts, foot traffic all contribute to the health of a lawn. Our assessment of conditions throughout the seasons alongside your own observations of your lawn can help carve the way to an outdoor oasis.  While perfection is not guaranteed, we do our very best to use our expertise to implement best practices for your lawn.

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Pesticide Application Business Registration # B-3277

lawn & flowering trees DG
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